SOUTHWEST COAST // france
In the summer months this stretch along the southwestern coast of France, known as Aquitaine, is home to beach lovers who flood the campgrounds and picturesque beaches. Come September the crowds vanish as summer tourists head home and establishments close up shop until next season. What seems to be the well kept secret is that the sun continues to shine and weather remains mild into October. The surf really turns on in September making this a magnet for committed barrel seekers. We chose to explore this part of the European coast by bike mid-Autumn for a couple reasons. Thanks to the Velodyssee trails this land is extremely accessible for bikers, paved nearly end-to-end. This time of year waning crowds make it easy to set up camp virtually anywhere. Our plan was loose, follow the trails and retire under the stars when we could not pedal any further. And of course, catch a few waves along the way. You can check out the Velodyssee trails here.
BIKE MISSION // Camping on the coast
It is possible to spend a day lost in the pine forest of the southwest French coast without encountering but a few souls meandering through the quiet of Fall. At the beginning of the week we departed a ferry in the town of Soulac Sur Mer, committed for Spain 250 miles south. Soon after leaving the ferry, the hectic world disappeared behind us and our focus became simple. Ride, eat, sleep. Just shy of the beach we found an empty bike highway hugging the coast dubbed the Velodyssee. The autumn sun flickered through the canopy of the pine trees above our heads and danced off our helmets like light reflecting of a YCMA pool ceiling. All the while waves pulsed onto the beach a few meters from the path like a soft parade of marbles in our ears. Each day was spend pedaling until our legs couldn't bare it and each night spent sleeping under the stars to the soundtrack of the sea. Carcan Plage marked our first destination and our maiden leg situated us right under the shade of giant trees, often lost on empty trails overrun with sand wondering, is this the right way? The further south we rode, the bigger the dunes rose and we were rewarded with white sand and ocean views. A few days into the ride we were finding our groove. As the rain began we rolled into the town of Cap Feret for an attempted hot meal and showers. We only got one. As we closed in on Hossegor the trail spit us out at an abandoned campground in Biscarosse, our last night of the week long ride. The area felt a touch apocalyptic in lieu of summer campers, but offered us shelter, new friends and time to reflect. We awoke the next morning to a frost glazed tent with the first cold snap of the season and an endless morning waiting for the sun to warm our cold stiff bones as we descended into Hossegor, we made it.
This ride is enjoyable for beginner and intermediate bike touring. “Wild” camping comes easy with a tent and enough supplies for a few days or plan ahead with hotels, this part of the world closes down after Labor Day. Use your smart phone’s GPS, follow the signs and enjoy the ride.
SURFING // BEACH BREAKs in the DUNES
It is easy to find yourself alone on a empty A frame in France come October. Unlike the rest of the French coast Hossegor and its surroundings come alive with surf and surfers after the summer crowds have retreated for the season. Every fall the World Surfing League (WSL) opens the door to a 10 day contest window that attracts surfing legends from around the world. We rode our bikes into town on the last day of the competition and lugged them up old steep wooden steps, over the dunes and pushed our way down to the oceans edge to watch the action. The competition brings in thousands of visitors but overall it only takes up a small section of the beach. For miles up and down the beach empty waves still break. After the contest left town we found the place to our selfs with endless sunshine, empty beaches and waves of all sizes. Hossegor is joined on the south by Capbreton divided from Hossegor by a small harbor and mandatory bridge crossing. In Capbreton we found a simple apartment on airbnb to settle us down for a week and get a feel for the lifestyle in this part of the world and sample the waves. Capbreton is easy striking distance to town with the cost of sleeping, eating and surfing priced for local tourist compared to the jet set that takes over Hossegor each October. Rent a scooter, find an empty parking lot, eat baguettes, drink wine and melt into the French rhythm of life. This place is magical.
FOOD // baguettes and beach fare
(Hossegor/Capbreton) Like all cities in France croissants, croque-monsieur and sharp espresso are plentiful in Hossegor, among other French staples. We set up shop most mornings at our favorite bakery in Capbreton, Lucas boulangerie, sipping small lattes, devouring sweet pastries and admiring the impressive bread spread. Lunch is typically a quick stop at a sandwich stop in between beach sessions while dinner was a more formal event. After spending a week on the bikes eating baguettes for breakfast lunch and dinner, we were craving some variety in our fare and Hossegor had plenty to offer; hopping back and for the between Hossegor and Capbreton is easily done by bike. We had some impressive pizzas at Le Napoli, a popular restaurant with a scene, but the highlight of the trip was posting up at Sushi Stop. This tiny place off the main drag in Hossegor is a must with a limited, but fresh selection of fish, and the owners, a sweet Dutch expat couple, will share stories as you linger with beers after wrapping up dinner. Skip the lure of touristy beach and riverside restaurants and hit these gems. Oh, and don't forget to stop by the Irish pub that gates the main pier - if you’re lucky you might catch a live Irish band here and end up drinking beers until the wee hours of the morning.
Hit these 'Hobos' Hot Spots
Surf // Rip Curl Hossegor // Short board rentals
Surf // Colin Surf -Capebretton // Soft tops, lessons and cool people
Surf // Outlets // Best place to look for 2nd hand boards
Bike // Velodyssee // Secluded trails along the coast
Dine // Sushi Stop // Fresh fish and company
Dine // Le Napoli // Big pizzas and bigger crowds
Dine // Lucas Boulangerie // Pastries, lattes & carb paradise
Stay // Airbnb // book early this time of year