CENTRAL & COASTAL OREGON

Oregon, a coastal convergence of all the desirable elements, beach, ocean, forest, snowy peaks, is mecca for those seeking outdoor recreation. With so much to see and so little time, we crossed the California-Oregon border and shot straight north intent on spending a few nights deep in the Willamette National Forest exploring a zone along the Mckenzie River. Just north of Belknap Springs sits a seemingly endless supply of trees, trails, waterfalls and swim holes. Willamette is of the largest national forests with more than 1.6 million acres most of which is covered by towering Douglas-fir, the state tree of Oregon. It’s easy and awesome to get lost in this place.

After three memorable nights under the trees, we agreed no Hobo Adventure would be complete without a quick stop at the beach. From there we headed west about three hours to Manzanita and spent a weekend jogging with horses on the beach, surfing mellow waves in a hidden cove and snoozing in the sand.

BIKE // MCKENZIE RIVER TRAIL

Willamette From Bend you can spin a bottle, head that direction and access endless single track. After an aborted evening in a Walmart parking lot we hunkered down in a cheap hotel not far from the brewery in downtown Bend to enjoy some of the local craft. In the morning we treated ourselves to a “super tasty organic breakfast sandwich” and pulled out our friend's map with highlights and hand written notes a plenty. Our bottle spin pointed towards the Willamette National Forest with our eyes set on hot springs, remote camps spots, swimming holes and bear spray. With Bend behind us things started to get quiet and we found a spot for the van next to a rushing creek feeding the Mckenzie River to launch the mountain bikes and camp out.  

Looking across the Mckenzie river I was shocked by the volume of water, it was August and I thought the run off would have been reduced to a trickle. Only 5 minutes into the ride two logs bridged the trail 20ft over the river.  One at a time we bounced with each step across the makeshift bridge, pushing our bikes as we walked on one log balancing our bikes on the 2nd log, requiring total focus and white knuckles. Looking back across the bridge we knew that we were committing to the at least the next ten miles on this side of the river before we could cross again. Sharp rocks and steep technical trail slows our progress but we pick away consistently and enjoy the challenge and beauty of the river before fatigue sets in. On our left steep, technical single track hung above a series of pools every 200-300 yards. Between the pools the water drops azure blue clearing hundreds of feet through the air into the next pool. Keep your eyes on the trail, hands off the brakes and stay loose, I think. A wrong move here could send you into a bad place. In few spots we stop, finding a 75 foot straight drop a few feet from the trail. “Man that looks like a fun jump” my friend Sam says gazing into the pool below, seconds before getting attacked by a swarm of bees. Recovering from the bee stings we quickly hopped back into the saddle laughing. Luckily the jump was never mentioned again and we pressed on. We didn't see any other mountain bikers on this section, just hikers. After the first 6 miles the trail flattened out and we start to flow with the trail back to cold beers.

SUrf// old growth coast

Manzanita We woke up early, the ocean sounded like cheap oscillating fan no pulse just constant white noise. A thick fog sat low like smoke over the dunes where we spent the night and we sat on top looking into a wall of white. Deflated I thought, how is this place any better than San Francisco in July and what can be worse than that cold fog than shitty small surf? Hoping for a break from the wind we drove the van out of town north, to a well known spot through the redwoods accessible only by foot, Smugglers Cove aka Short Sands. Trees hundreds of years old frame the trail down to the beach and it was so quiet. We passed by hippies talking about farming, carrying old beat up surf boards and pointing out edible plants. “Try it man, its good with cheese, you can make a nice salad out of it.” Down on the beach a few sunbathers capitalize on the cove's protection from the wind and fog and hipsters from Portland set up driftwood camps with surfboards and stage photo shoots. Still all of the action got washed out in the large scale of the cove and I walked into the ocean for a surf. My feet get a burning sensation. It was so cold and I thought I must go back to the beach I cant feel my feet. And then I couldn’t, problem solved. Out in the line up I felt so small under the rock cliffs that bookend the beach underneath old growth forest. This is classic pacific northwest I think as I paddle into my first wave in Oregon.

FOOD // CAMPER PIT STOPS

While we cannot possibly do the Oregon food scene justice based on our travel itinerary we can provide some quick tips for goodies based on our stops. Bad Wolf Bakery in Bend spits out some epic breakfast sandwiches, stop in on your way through or make it your breakfast spot if spending more time in Bend. In the National Park we spent a couple of mornings at Takoda’s in Belknap Springs for one too many servings of biscuits and gravy. In Manzanita the dining options are somewhat limited but I highly recommend grabbing some local brews, ordering a pie window-side from Marzano’s and catching the sunset along Ocean Road.

HIT THESE 'HOBOS' HOT SPOTS

Surf // Surfline // No secrets here, Manzanita

Hike // Mackenzie River Trail // Swimming holes and waterfalls, Willamette

Bike // Mackenzie River Trail // Days worth of single track

Dine // Bad Wolf Bakery // Breakfast sammies, Bend

Dine // Takoda's // Biscuits & gravy, Belknap Springs

Dine // Marzano's // Spicy pies and sunsets