SAN SEBASTIAN // SPAIN

San Sebastian is a small city bursting with big city character, ripe for refined adventure as one of the leading tourism destinations in Spain. This newly appointed European Capital of Culture is an old fishing port located just 20km south of the French border on the southern coast of the Bay of Biscay. The juxtaposition of vibrant history, modern foodie and thrill seeker delights make this city one of a kind. We landed in this charming coastal gem at the endpoint of our cycle touring down the coast of France. The picturesque shoreline, beach break and hilly surroundings provide an endless supply of entertainment for those looking to surf, bike, eat or just relax under the sun.

BIKE MISSION // Jagged coastline

Once south of Biarritz, France you might ride your bike off a 200 ft. cliff into the ocean as the soft dunes of France transition into the Pyrenees mountains. The peaks 10 minutes south of town in San Sebastian look like sawtooth blades over the ocean, where the roads have to yield to the landscape. Heading out for a ride, these roads were ready to serve me up a dish of hair pinned, shoulder-less, white knuckle climbs on roads delicately carved into the cliffs. Rising from the beach you look straight down at the roads you have just climbed and the ash gray water of Concha Bay making old San Sebastian appear small in scale. Drivers rush past pushing the limits of their small Renaults, Fiats and Puegots and in a few spots the slope of the road levels out enough to crack off a few pictures before getting back to work uphill. The riding potential is unlimited but even little loops close to town serve as a great way to get a glimpse up the coast east of San Sebastian and to see the city staged between the ocean and the mountains before riding back down hill to stuff yourself with the bottomless snacks this wonderful place has to offer. Bike by mountain, road or cruiser. There is something for everyone with rentals and even guides if needed.

SURF // Points and Beach breaks

Depending on the season the Atlantic can be a gentle place for meditation or a cauldron of terror on the Basque Coast. San Sebastian is a perfect place for constant surf checks and drinking coffee. Not long after arriving we set out for the short walk from Old San Sebastian over the river to Zaruatz, the main surf beach, for our first check. Crossing over the bridge above the Urumea River, waves actually sneak past the river mouth and pulse underneath the bridge up into the heart of the city like a swallowed ice cube. Surfers scurry through city streets and dodge bikers like a game of Frogger. At the beach called Zaruatz a wide boardwalk on the edge feels out of place, juxtaposed with the classic lines of city. It serves as an unofficial line separating the beach from the city, nature wild vs. city wild. In the water surfers compete for corners of waves to slide down on a diverse set of water craft from kayaks to body boards to traditional surfboard. Rental surf craft is shockingly good in quality with endless options and the beach vibes are strong. 

Food // TRADITION WORTH EATING

Though San Sebastian is home to several Michelin rated restaurants, second only to Kyoto, Japan, casual pintxos rule the dining scene here and serve as a great way to immerse yourself in the Basque community and culture. The pinxto style of eating - see, point, eat, socialize, repeat - makes a marathon event out of dinner as you hop from place to place for the next course. Buzzing bars serving these bites line the streets of Old Town so no need to Yelp it here. The cheesecake at La Vina is a must, you'll be going back for a second slice of this heavenly, custardy treat. Hit one of the bakeries in the a.m. too, they've learned a thing or two from the French about buttery croissants.

Hit these 'Hobos' Hot Spots

Surf // Pukas, Patagonia, Hawaiidonostia // Endless quiver of rentals

Bike // Mountain Bike Tours // Sign up early

Dine // La Vina // Famous Burnt Cheesecake, Old Town

Dine // La Cepa // Pinxtos, Old Town

Stay // Artea Narrika // Small, cozy guesthouse, Old Town